2014年11月14日星期五

A bitter and sweet experience travelling by local bus

A bitter and sweet experience travelling by local bus

Curve after curve, bend after bend, brake, brake and brake again, this is the reality for much of the journey on the main route from Xieng Khuang province to Vientiane via National Road No 7.

The winding route through the mountains at elevations of more than 1,200 metres makes many passengers on the 29 seater bus get terribly car sick and some end up throwing up.

The journey on the mountainous route can be fun but it can also be terrible if you suffer from carsickness.

Children cry and vomit in their mothers’ arms while adults and the elderly also start complaining about small seats, ineffective air-conditioning and the rough gear changes by the middle aged driver.

Such an experience is not uncommon when travelling via local transport in Laos, especially on the northern roads where people are reluctant to commute due to the winding roads and steep mountainsides.

However you can make it a more pleasant journey if you relax and take in the stunning scenery when daylight allows, or comfort yourself by chatting with other locals on the bus about what the road used to be like years ago.

I did such a thing when travelling by local bus on the northern roads all the way from Xieng Khuang to Vientiane province recently.

I must admit that this was the first time for me to travel on this road, which winds its way through the mountains like a never ending snake.

Looking back, I was not only uncomfortable but also badly carsick the last time I took a bus on the mountainous northern roads.

But this time I wanted to challenge myself and see what the trip was like and find out why people suffer such terrible carsickness.

Some people chose to leave at 8:30pm so that they can sleep most of the way but I chose to take a small bus which doesn’t take quite as long.

The bus left at 6:30pm and it was expected to arrive in Vientiane province at 2:30am in the morning.

Most of the passengers will get off at the Northern Bus Terminal, while my destination stop was Vientiane province further north before the capital.

Soft music was playing to keep the passengers from getting bored. But as soon as the driver turned off the light, you could hear the passengers removing plastic bags to prepare for the inevitable carsickness they knew too well.

I had heard that the road from Vientiane province to Xieng Khuang is one of the most terrible in terms of curving and high altitude. All too soon, I soon found out this was true because people in the bus started moving left and right, back and forth as the bus jerked its way through the mountains.

While many people slept with their heads down due to long journey and bad carsickness, I actually enjoyed this crammed bus that was swinging me back and forth.

As it was dark I could not figure out how road's surrounding was like but I knew that out the window was either a cliff or a deep ravine.

I tried to ignore the sound and smell of people vomiting inside the bus or thinking about the bus careering off the mountainside.

A young man sitting next to me said he couldn’t look at the people throwing up or he was likely to vomit as well.

Some passengers said the constant braking and winding road were the main part of carsickness.

Some said the bus was too small and complained they could not straighten their legs.

“Please turn up the air-con, I am sick,” one passenger said. Meanwhile others begged “Please open the window wider, I feel uncomfortable.”

It was the middle of the night and I felt I was in the middle of nowhere; I had no idea where we were along the way. 

All I knew was more than 10 people were suffering from carsickness. A man behind who asked to open the door said although the road was winding, it was much better compared to when he travelled it with his military friend.

He kept talking in the quiet bus, recalling that in the past it took him and his friends a few days or even a week to travel from Vientiane by military trucks to Xieng Khuang.

“Back then, the road was dangerous! Not only was it in very poor condition but bandits used to hide along the road. If we saw a big tree lying across the road we were instantly on guard against a potential attack,” he recalled.

The former soldier went on to tell us that he himself had been caught up in one such attack and some of his friends were wounded in the ensuing gunfight.

Back then the road was full of big trees and animals. He says it was common to see wildlife running across the road. 

The trip makes me feel as if I was in the days gone by when the route was still being built and potential danger was hidden along the way.

The trip was much better than previous ones; I enjoyed not only the oral history of a man sitting behind me but also the clear night sky with thousands of stars and the cool mountain air.

Travelling by local bus is not all bad after all; it can help bring you back to earth.

~News courtesy of Vientiane Times~

2014年11月8日星期六

2014年10月20日星期一

Sala Champa Hotel - Pakse

Road 10, Pakse. Tel:  031-212273

There are two different styles of rooms at Sala Champa with the difference being the building they're housed in and their size. It's a standard hotel with some boutique aspects such as quirky designer chairs to lounge on and a tasteful paint job on what otherwise would look like a ratty old building. 

It's been done up just enough to clear away that old dumpy feeling and now has a bit of grace about it. The rooms are still simple, with wooden floors, hardly any furniture, old TVs and slightly dark, dank and disappointing bathrooms. In fact, it's the bathrooms that really let this whole place down and they need to give them a good old makeover. A reasonable choice, but not as special as it wants to be.

~Info courtesy of Travelfish~

Fang Sedon Guest House - Pakse


The Fang Sedon Guesthouse in Pakse, Laos is located North of Wat Luang, beside the river. The main reason people come to Fang Sedon Guesthouse is for the cheap fan rooms dotted around the property. The rooms come with cheap beds topped with cheap sheets, cold water bathrooms and bucket-flush Western toilets – nothing else. 

There is an untidy terrace that in days gone by was a dream, but we were underwhelmed at how unkempt it looked. They just need to spend a bit of money on some nice tables and chairs and clean up the river bank below and it would indeed be THE spot for an afternoon beer – at the moment it's not. For 50,000 kip you can't really complain, though and as nearly everyone who stays here is a fellow backpacker, you're likely to meet other like-minded travellers.

~Info courtesy of Travelfish~

Wildlife experience of a lifetime

Wildlife experience of a lifetime

Moments before visitors go down for a good night's sleep in the northern province after an adventurous day of wildlife sightings, the experienced tour-guide tells them, “No need to set your alarms, the birds will chirp and you wake up pleasantly.”


A skilled boatman calmly navigates his vessel in the strong currents.

Relaxed and at ease, the guests head to bed before the heavy rainfall sets in. I momentarily think to myself, ‘there is no way I will hear the birds chirping in this thunderstorm', but the rain has already eased me into a deep and peaceful sleep.

In a dazed state, a sound catches in my ear. A slight buzzing can be heard in my mosquito net. However, it does not bother me as I drift in and out of sleep.

The sound intensifies and jolts me awake. My eyes still blurry, I see a small flying object dart around as I try to shake my sleep off and rub my eyes.

Clawing out of my net, I couldn't believe my eyes. My friend's boot moves in a slow motion. Frightened and in disbelief, I discovered a kaleidoscope of butterflies trapped inside. This was one of my most memorable experiences at the eco-lodge in Nam Et-Phou Louey National Protected Area (NEPL NPA), located along the Nam Nern River in Huaphan province.

The trip is an adventure of exploring wildlife, insects and unique plants, with the Night Safari being a highlight of the experience. The safari was open to the public in 2010 and has been booming ever since.

The untouched nature in this protected area has allowed my friends and I to experience the environment in its most purest form.

Tracking wildlife in the rainy season is possibly the most difficult as you need to rely heavily on your tour-guide's sharp eyesight to witness the animals and insects. The experienced tour-guides running the wildlife tours and treks are experienced hunters, who have turned into rangers and conservers of the abundant forest.

The day before our stay at the eco-lodge, our tour guide took us on a journey along the river, telling us that we were lucky that the water level was not as high, which made our travel faster than usual.

I anticipated the boat trip to take around an hour, however, this was certainly not the case. Upon boarding the boat, we experienced the strongest current I have ever felt. The boat struggled upstream against the current and with one hand clasped firmly on the edge of the boat and one hand secured around my camera, we began our wildlife adventure.

The view of our luscious, green surroundings along with snakes, green lizards and monitor lizards were captivating and made you forget how turbulent the boat was.

The experienced boatmen and guides were able to spot the wildlife from a distance. Their sharp eyes caught the animals even though they were camouflaged.

One tour-guide sat on top of the boat to navigate and make sure that we were on the right track, while the skilled boatmen manoeuvred the boat upstream. I was thoroughly impressed by the skills of the guides as they delivered us to the eco-lodge in a calm and safe manner, regardless of the strong currents and turbulent journey.

Once we reached the eco-lodge, where we stayed overnight, we were given the chance to trek in the forest and see the wildlife, insects and plants close up.

We were able to witness animal tracks leading to an area known as ‘salt lick', where animals are attracted to the minerals found in the ground of the forest. The animals gather to lick the ground for its salty taste.

We desperately wanted to reach the area, even though the track was muddy and leeches were scattered along our path.

Halfway through the trek, we were afraid that we would not be able to make it as the sky was darkening and the heavy clouds were forming. We decided to try our luck and navigate our way to a closer salt lick area.

We were successful in reaching the closer salt lick location and were able to identify a type of fruit the wildlife liked to consume. The guide told us that this was called cardamom.

After our explorations, we headed back to the eco-lodge and as I laid my head down listening to the rain and reminiscing on our adventure, I drifted into the land of dreams waiting for the sound of the birds chirping in the morning.

This trip is one of the most valuable experiences for people who would like to learn about local wildlife and villages in Laos. NEPL-NPA can be reached by local bus or trucks, with the journey taking a few hours from Xieng Khouang province.

~Info courtesy of Vientiane Times~

2014年10月5日星期日