Borikhamxay earmarks river site as tourist draw

Borikhamxay earmarks river site as tourist draw

Standing on the Mekong riverbank and observing the fishermen on their boats is a very relaxing way of spending the day. And if you can go with the fishermen on their boats it will be even more enjoyable as you get to watch them at work and have a nice view of the river and the communities that live along the riverbank.

This idyllic riverine environment has the potential to be a strong tourist draw as more and more people seek out less well known parts of the country.


Rocks resembling a turtle lie in the middle of the Mekong in Kaengsadok village, Borikhamxay province.

Borikhamxay is one of the 17 provinces in Laos that is making a careful assessment of its tourism potential. It recently laid out a strategy plan for 2015-2020 aiming to position the province as a tourism hub linking the south of Laos to the region and is now seeking concession-holders to develop 25 tourist sites.

As a reporter, I recently accompanied the Deputy Minister of Information, Culture and Tourism, Mr Savankhone Razmountry, and a provincial tourism team to Kaengsadok village which lies alongside some intriguing natural rock formations in the middle of the Mekong.

This site, in Pakxan district, is listed as one of the 25 new tourist attractions.

The trip to Kaengsadok took place after a media meeting last month to discuss the introduction of analogue television transmission along with other broadcast media which was attended by more than 40 senior officials and chaired by Mr Savankhone.

Kaengsadok is 25km from the urban heart of Pakxan district on Road No. 13 South. A right turn off this road indicated by a sign takes visitors a further 15 minutes to reach the village.

When you arrive at the riverbank, you will see many fishing boats and an embankment under construction. If you gaze out over the river to the left your attention will be caught by some curiously shaped rocks and the fishermen's boats in midstream.

Deputy Head of Kaengsadok village, Mr Chomphet Vinavong, said 70 to 80 boats go out in search of fish every day. Sometimes, visitors hire them out for a pleasurable fishing trip.

“This area not only has the rocks, which can be imagined as a dog, turtle, crocodile or stupa, and the activities of the fishermen to interest visitors. We also have a large expanse of white sand along the river which runs for about one kilometre and is suitable for beach activities,” he said.

“This is a great spot for locals and domestic visitors as well as overseas tourists. They come here to look at the rocks and have a relaxing day on the beach, especially at Lao New Year and other festivals. People can buy Mekong fish and grill it over charcoal and eat it on the beach.”

On the other side of the river lies Thailand and the bucolic scenes along both banks where the locals grow plots of vegetables make for a pleasing sight.

Mr Chomphet said “We sometimes get some fishing amateurs here from Vientiane who come with rods and lines and people were hooking 8 to 10 kg of fish last month. In March and April you can pull 20 to 30 kg of fish out of the water each day.”

People like to come here for payang, pakueng and payon, which costs 35,000 to 80,000 kip per kg.

These things are the reason why the province approved Kaengsadok as one of the 25 places for development as tourist attractions.

Statistics for 2014 published by the Tourism Development Department show that Borikhamxay has 108 hotels and guesthouses with 2,011 rooms, which puts the province in seventh place in terms of accommodation rankings in Laos.

The province also has two travel agents, 70 officially designated sites of natural beauty, 11 sites of cultural interest and three historical sites.

Borikhamxay is 150km from Vientiane and can be reached by Road No. 13 South.

~News courtesy of Vientiane Times~

Kongbouat Festival

Kongbouat Festival

Respectful senior monks and newly ordained monks step over silk sashes placed by merit makers for the monks to step on after they walk from a Naga boat, which is where people pour water over them to wash away any bad spirits. This is the central feature of the Kongbouat festival.

Merit makers at this festival including young and old men and women who sit in a long line from a point close to the Naga boat until the grounds of the sanctuary. Some middle-aged men lay on the ground for the monks to step over their backs, believing the monks will cure their backache.


A Baci ceremony for a newly ordained monk.

Merit makers take part in the ordination rituals at the temple and a large group of them invite respectful monks and newly ordained monks to step over their silk sashes, but it's unlikely that most of them know the meaning of this custom.

Venerable Keo, a senior monk at Sisavangvong temple in Xayaboury district, Xayaboury province, said merit makers offer sashes to respectful monks and newly ordained monks to step over as a sign of respect and to offer their congratulation to monks who are promoted to a new position and have contributed to Buddhist organisations.

This ritual is in evidence as part of merit making during the Konghote and Kongbouat festivals. When these festivals are observed either in a temple or in someone's home, the organisers and the monks will decorate a Naga boat while the pathway from the boat to the main worship hall will be adorned with leafy banana stems, sugar cane plants and flowers.

According to Venerable Keo, who is on the temple committee, the Konghote and Kongbouat festivals are held at an appropriate time of the year. This depends on the time that is convenient for those involved, as well as their financial circumstances. There is no limit to the number of festivals that may be held. A large number of people may hold nine Konghote festivals and one Kongbouat jointly. Some people will arrange two or one Konghote and Kongbouat festivals.

Venerable Keo said there are various reasons for holding the Kongbouat festival. Some people do it to ordain a son so that he can study Dharma in the temple and pay tribute to his parents, while others want to pay homage to their deceased parents and other relatives. Elderly people use the occasion as a merit-making ritual as they believe the offerings will support them in the next life. 

People who arrange a Kongbouat festival are aged over 40. It is considered unacceptable for people under 40 to host the festival because it means they will receive their offerings early and will therefore have a short life.

The festivals last for two days. On the first day the offerings are prepared and on the second day there is an almsgiving ceremony in the early morning and laypeople take on the role of Nagas to protect the newly ordained monks. Merit makers and guests form a procession with the four Nagas and offerings and walk to the temple after the almsgiving ceremony.

On the first day, friends, relatives and other invited guests come to make merit with the festival organisers and give them money, flowers and milled sticky rice in a bowl. In return, the hosts invite the guests to have lunch and dinner and also give them a bag of snacks. Some guests place offerings in the monks' bags and bowls. On the evening of the first day, a group of musicians plays traditional music and sings folksongs to entertain the guests.

The second day of merit-making sees the giving of alms, the conversion of people into four Naga and the procession carrying offerings to the temple. When the procession reaches the temple, respectful monks, elderly people, merit makers and the musicians walk three times around the shrine to pay their respects to Lord Buddha.

As the troupe of musicians plays their instruments and sings, participants cheer them to spur them on and create a joyful atmosphere. The merit-makers carry their offerings, comprising a bed, mattress, robes, household utensils and markbeng (a pyramid made of banana leaves, gold paper, flowers, and silver and golden trees hung with kip notes).

After the merit-makers have processed three times around the shrine, the monks begin the religious rituals in the main worship hall to ordain new monks and novices and present offerings.

After the ceremony, the monks who are to be newly ordained, ordained as senior monks or elevated to a higher rank will have water poured over them inside the Naga boat. The merit-makers do this in order to wash away any bad spirits.

The newly ordained monks carry bags and alms bowls from the Naga boat to the main worship hall. Some monks throw sacred water over the participants while some merit-makers throw money mixed with candy, milled sticky rice and flowers.

Merit-makers then invite monks from other temples and the organisers of the Kongbouat festival to take part in a Baci ceremony for the newly ordained monk. The hosts of the festival offer a bowl containing pieces of silver and golden swords to the monk.

Venerable Keo said these items are considered to be a show of support for the monk. The monk is not allowed to sell them, but may give them to someone he holds dear.

There is no limit to the weight of the silver and golden swords given to the monk. The amount given depends on the festival organiser.

The Konghote and Kongbouat festivals are similar, but the Konghote doesn't involve the presentation of pieces of silver and golden swords.

Invited guests and all laypeople taking part in the merit-making, both at home and in the temple, will wear modest clothing. Women of course wear a sinh (long skirt) and blouse, while men wear trousers.

~News courtesy of Vientiane Times~

Renovated museum receives crowning glory

Renovated museum receives crowning glory

President Choummaly Sayasone and his wife on Saturday led a ceremony that saw 17 golden gable finials placed atop the renovated Hor Pha Keo Museum in Vientiane.

The restoration of the museum, one of the capital's most visited landmarks, is fully on track since beginning in December, although further public donations are needed to continue the work.



President Choummaly Sayasone holds a rope while the finials are placed on the roof of the Hor Phra Keo Museum in Vientiane. --Photo Khamphanh

Speaking at the ceremony, which was attended by senior government officials, Vice Mayor of Vientiane Mr Saithong Keoduangdy said the restoration of the Hor Pha Keo Museum was important for Lao people because it sustained their fine traditions and culture.

“All Lao people are encouraged to contribute by making donations for the improvement of one of Vientiane's most important cultural sites,” he said.

The restoration of Hor Pha Keo is the third improvement project since the structure was first built in 1565 during the reign of King Setthathirath.

“The project is slated for completion by the end of this year,” Mr Saithong said.

The ceremony to place the ornamental gable finials in position began with a religious ceremony led by the President of the Lao Buddhist Fellowship, the Most Venerable Phong Samaleuk, and other senior monks from Vientiane temples.

This was followed by a parade of the gable finials around the museum three times, led by Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Education and Sports Dr Phankham Viphavanh, Minister of Information, Culture and Tourism Prof. Dr Bosengkham Vongdara, Mayor of Vientiane Dr Sinlavong Khoutphaythoune, deputy ministers, the spouses of senior government officials, and invited Vientiane residents.

The gable finials were hoisted onto the rooftop by an electric winch.

So far, the restoration project has received more than 1.1 billion kip, US$15,793 and three kilogrammes of gold from public donations, according to the committee in charge of the project.

The committee estimates that more than 6.3 billion kip will be needed to purchase new materials to restore damaged sections of the museum.

More donations of materials and cash are being sought from members of the public both at home and overseas to ensure the museum is renovated to a high standard.

Hor Pha Keo is one of the oldest buildings in Vientiane and was used as a royal chapel during the time of the Lanexang Kingdom and also housed the precious Emerald Buddha (Pha Keo).

The building was destroyed when the Siamese (Thai) invaded Vientiane in 1779 and took the Emerald Buddha to Siam (Thailand), where it is housed in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok.

In 1826-29, the Siamese again invaded Vientiane and once more destroyed the temple after it had been rebuilt during the rule of King Anouvong in 1816.

Hor Pha Keo was again restored in 1936-42.

~News courtesy of Vientiane Times~

Lao Airlines plans route expansion

Lao Airlines plans route expansion


Lao Airlines A320

Lao Airlines, the national carrier of Laos, will add a new route to its 19-destination network across the landlocked Southeast Asian country.

The new route, to Attopeu, will be flown 3X-weekly from the carrier’s base in Vientiane, retuning via Champasak region capital Pakse. It is looking to fly to Jakarta in the coming months using an Airbus A320.

The airline suffered a fatal crash in October 2013, killing 49 passengers and crew on an ATR 72 approach to Pakse, but has since pushed for an expansion of its route both domestically and internationally. It now operates flights to Taiwan, China, Singapore, Korea, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam as well as 10 domestic destinations.

At the end of December, it added a fourth route to China from Luang Prabang to Chengdu.

The official opening up of the ASEAN Open Skies policy this year will likely see increased competition across the region, with Lao Airlines already seeing increased inroads onto its potential market.

This is currently highlighted by a dispute between Thai Smile, a subsidiary of THAI Airways International, and the Department of Civil Aviation of Lao PDR (DCA) over the former flying into Vientiane from Bangkok on THAI’s bilateral agreement’s ticket.

~News courtesy of Air Transport World~

happy new year 2015

ສະບາຍດີ ປີໃຫມ່


sabaidee pii mai
happy new year

A bitter and sweet experience travelling by local bus

A bitter and sweet experience travelling by local bus

Curve after curve, bend after bend, brake, brake and brake again, this is the reality for much of the journey on the main route from Xieng Khuang province to Vientiane via National Road No 7.

The winding route through the mountains at elevations of more than 1,200 metres makes many passengers on the 29 seater bus get terribly car sick and some end up throwing up.

The journey on the mountainous route can be fun but it can also be terrible if you suffer from carsickness.

Children cry and vomit in their mothers’ arms while adults and the elderly also start complaining about small seats, ineffective air-conditioning and the rough gear changes by the middle aged driver.

Such an experience is not uncommon when travelling via local transport in Laos, especially on the northern roads where people are reluctant to commute due to the winding roads and steep mountainsides.

However you can make it a more pleasant journey if you relax and take in the stunning scenery when daylight allows, or comfort yourself by chatting with other locals on the bus about what the road used to be like years ago.

I did such a thing when travelling by local bus on the northern roads all the way from Xieng Khuang to Vientiane province recently.

I must admit that this was the first time for me to travel on this road, which winds its way through the mountains like a never ending snake.

Looking back, I was not only uncomfortable but also badly carsick the last time I took a bus on the mountainous northern roads.

But this time I wanted to challenge myself and see what the trip was like and find out why people suffer such terrible carsickness.

Some people chose to leave at 8:30pm so that they can sleep most of the way but I chose to take a small bus which doesn’t take quite as long.

The bus left at 6:30pm and it was expected to arrive in Vientiane province at 2:30am in the morning.

Most of the passengers will get off at the Northern Bus Terminal, while my destination stop was Vientiane province further north before the capital.

Soft music was playing to keep the passengers from getting bored. But as soon as the driver turned off the light, you could hear the passengers removing plastic bags to prepare for the inevitable carsickness they knew too well.

I had heard that the road from Vientiane province to Xieng Khuang is one of the most terrible in terms of curving and high altitude. All too soon, I soon found out this was true because people in the bus started moving left and right, back and forth as the bus jerked its way through the mountains.

While many people slept with their heads down due to long journey and bad carsickness, I actually enjoyed this crammed bus that was swinging me back and forth.

As it was dark I could not figure out how road's surrounding was like but I knew that out the window was either a cliff or a deep ravine.

I tried to ignore the sound and smell of people vomiting inside the bus or thinking about the bus careering off the mountainside.

A young man sitting next to me said he couldn’t look at the people throwing up or he was likely to vomit as well.

Some passengers said the constant braking and winding road were the main part of carsickness.

Some said the bus was too small and complained they could not straighten their legs.

“Please turn up the air-con, I am sick,” one passenger said. Meanwhile others begged “Please open the window wider, I feel uncomfortable.”

It was the middle of the night and I felt I was in the middle of nowhere; I had no idea where we were along the way. 

All I knew was more than 10 people were suffering from carsickness. A man behind who asked to open the door said although the road was winding, it was much better compared to when he travelled it with his military friend.

He kept talking in the quiet bus, recalling that in the past it took him and his friends a few days or even a week to travel from Vientiane by military trucks to Xieng Khuang.

“Back then, the road was dangerous! Not only was it in very poor condition but bandits used to hide along the road. If we saw a big tree lying across the road we were instantly on guard against a potential attack,” he recalled.

The former soldier went on to tell us that he himself had been caught up in one such attack and some of his friends were wounded in the ensuing gunfight.

Back then the road was full of big trees and animals. He says it was common to see wildlife running across the road. 

The trip makes me feel as if I was in the days gone by when the route was still being built and potential danger was hidden along the way.

The trip was much better than previous ones; I enjoyed not only the oral history of a man sitting behind me but also the clear night sky with thousands of stars and the cool mountain air.

Travelling by local bus is not all bad after all; it can help bring you back to earth.

~News courtesy of Vientiane Times~

ເດືອນພະຈິກ

ເດືອນພະຈິກ
Deuan-pa-jik
November