Life in the slow lane
How to spend 36 hours in Luang Prabang and still see everything without rushing
Amidst the breakneck pace of the surrounding region, Unesco-protected Luang Prabang is a haven for anyone wanting to escape a hectic lifestyle and discover the art of slow living. Dotted by faded villas and gilded temples, Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom, is the heart and soul of Laotian culture. The small town, where most locals are asleep by 11, is a fusion of traditional Lao architecture and the villas built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Sitting at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers, Luang Prabang promises to wreck any tightly planned itinerary thanks to a way of life that allows residents and visitors to soak in the luxury of time.
FRIDAY
Dinner under the mango tree: 7pm
3 Nagas, a charming boutique hotel in the centre of Luang Prabang, is home to the award-winning "Best Lao Restaurant" in Luang Prabang. If there is no rain, dine outdoors under the huge mango tree and savour the beauty of the three restored historical houses. The restaurant serves one of the best Salad Pak Nam (watercress salad) in Luang Prabang. Another snack not to be missed while in Laos is river weed or kai with jaew bong, a sweet-and-spicy chilli paste made with chilli, galangal and water-buffalo skin.
Time to bargain: 9pm
Luang Prabang Night Market runs from 5 to 11. The street is closed off to vehicles from Sisavangvong Road to Settathilat Road in the town centre. The contrast between the sea of colourful knock-down stalls and the glittering backdrop of Haw Pha Bang and the Royal Palace Museum came as a shock to this visitor, who remembers a much more laid-back night stroll through a handful of vendors just 10 short years ago. The entire street is filled with vendors selling embroidered bags and purses, T-shirts, silk, cotton pants and shirts and paper lanterns. If walking and bargaining re-ignite your appetite, then head to the Night Food Market down the narrow lane at Settathilat Road where you'll find noodles, snacks, juice and the famous Beer Lao.
SATURDAY
Giving alms to monks: 6am
Giving sticky rice alms to hundreds of monks from more than 30 temples in Luang Prabang is a fascinating experience that shouldn't be missed, no matter what religion you may adhere to. Once the monks go back to their temples, the locals will take other dishes to eat with the rice to the temple so do not put any other comestibles than sticky rice in the bowl. Long sleeves worn with trousers or long skirts are recommended for all alms givers.
Coffee coffee coffee: 7am
Introduced by French colonialists in the early twentieth century, coffee has secured its place as the country's most famous drink and is also its largest agricultural export commodity. Pasaneyom Coffee Shop is one of the best places to enjoy an authentic Lao coffee, with a baguette (khao ji) or rice congee with youtiao (pah thong ko). If you prefer a more Western breakfast, check out Joma Bakery Cafe or Le Café Ban Vat Sene and enjoy your coffee while watching the world pass by.
Laotian whiskey and Pak Ou Cave: 9am
Ban Xang Hai or Whiskey Village, 29 km north of Luang Prabang, is a common stop on the boat ride to Pak Ou Cave and is just 30 minutes away by car. Laotian whiskey, or Lao Lao as it's known locally, is traditionally used in important blessing ceremonies and to greet visitors, so don't be surprised to be offered a shot of Laotian whiskey (or a jar with drinking straws to share!) as a welcome drink. Whiskeys bottled with snakes or scorpions, believed to have some medicinal benefits, are not for the faint-hearted. Taking a boat from Ban Xang Hai to Pak Ou Cave, a spot also known as Tham Ting, is a great way of recovering from the Laotian whiskey tasting. Tham Ting is a pair of centuries-old caves that are home to hundreds of small wooden Buddha images brought there by the boatmen for good luck.
Strolling or cycling, your choice: 1pm
With all the charm of a European town infused with the spirit of Asia, Luang Prabang is best discovered with a walk about town. A bicycle ride will speed up the travel time, giving more chances to visit attractions but less opportunity to enjoy the slow pace of the town.
> Places not to be missed are Wat Xiang Thong, Wat Wisunalat and the Royal Palace Museum.
Founded in 1560 by King Settathilat, Wat Xiang Thong, which sits alongside the river, is the finest example of Lao monastic architecture. The highlight is the Sim - the congregation hall - with its low, sweeping, three-tiered roof.
The original wood structure of Wat Wisunalat, alternatively known as Wat Visoun, was destroyed by the Black Flag invaders, but the That Makmo - the "watermelon stupa" - was rebuilt in the late 1920s.
The Royal Palace Museum or Golden Hall was built in 1904, when the French ran the country. A blend of European and Lao designs, the museum was the home of Sisavangvong, the last king of Laos, until his death in 1959. Haw Pha Bang or Royal Palace Chapel, located at the northeast corner of the Royal Palace Museum, houses Prabang, a golden Buddhist statue after which the town is named.
Sunset at Phu Si: 5am
Wat Phu Si or Pra That Phu Si is opposite the Royal Palace Museum, on the hill in the heart of Luang Prabang. The walk up, 328 steps, isn't easy, but is supposed to signify a test of faith. The summit offers some wonderful city views.
SUNDAY
Morning market: 6am
Don't miss the morning market in a web of alleys off Sisavangvong Road. You will find fresh vegetables, fruits, river weeds, buffalo skin, huge river fish, live and dead chickens (still with their feathers), beehives and honey bees, barbecued paddy mouse, snakes, bats and other, not always recognisable, produce spread out on bamboo mats on the sidewalk for good prices.
Ock Pop Tok: 10AM
Choose your favourite silk or learn how to weave your own fabric at Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, a place where weavers, spinners and batik makers produce top-quality fabrics. A tour of the centre gives a superb insight into silk production and dye making. Lunch at the centre's river-view cafe or try a cup of the pleasant silk-worm droppings tea.
IF YOU GO
ThaiAirAsia operates a daily flight between Bangkok's Don Mueang and Luang Prabang.
~News courtesy of The Nation~
How to spend 36 hours in Luang Prabang and still see everything without rushing
Amidst the breakneck pace of the surrounding region, Unesco-protected Luang Prabang is a haven for anyone wanting to escape a hectic lifestyle and discover the art of slow living. Dotted by faded villas and gilded temples, Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom, is the heart and soul of Laotian culture. The small town, where most locals are asleep by 11, is a fusion of traditional Lao architecture and the villas built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Sitting at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers, Luang Prabang promises to wreck any tightly planned itinerary thanks to a way of life that allows residents and visitors to soak in the luxury of time.
FRIDAY
Dinner under the mango tree: 7pm
3 Nagas, a charming boutique hotel in the centre of Luang Prabang, is home to the award-winning "Best Lao Restaurant" in Luang Prabang. If there is no rain, dine outdoors under the huge mango tree and savour the beauty of the three restored historical houses. The restaurant serves one of the best Salad Pak Nam (watercress salad) in Luang Prabang. Another snack not to be missed while in Laos is river weed or kai with jaew bong, a sweet-and-spicy chilli paste made with chilli, galangal and water-buffalo skin.
Time to bargain: 9pm
Luang Prabang Night Market runs from 5 to 11. The street is closed off to vehicles from Sisavangvong Road to Settathilat Road in the town centre. The contrast between the sea of colourful knock-down stalls and the glittering backdrop of Haw Pha Bang and the Royal Palace Museum came as a shock to this visitor, who remembers a much more laid-back night stroll through a handful of vendors just 10 short years ago. The entire street is filled with vendors selling embroidered bags and purses, T-shirts, silk, cotton pants and shirts and paper lanterns. If walking and bargaining re-ignite your appetite, then head to the Night Food Market down the narrow lane at Settathilat Road where you'll find noodles, snacks, juice and the famous Beer Lao.
SATURDAY
Giving alms to monks: 6am
Giving sticky rice alms to hundreds of monks from more than 30 temples in Luang Prabang is a fascinating experience that shouldn't be missed, no matter what religion you may adhere to. Once the monks go back to their temples, the locals will take other dishes to eat with the rice to the temple so do not put any other comestibles than sticky rice in the bowl. Long sleeves worn with trousers or long skirts are recommended for all alms givers.
Coffee coffee coffee: 7am
Introduced by French colonialists in the early twentieth century, coffee has secured its place as the country's most famous drink and is also its largest agricultural export commodity. Pasaneyom Coffee Shop is one of the best places to enjoy an authentic Lao coffee, with a baguette (khao ji) or rice congee with youtiao (pah thong ko). If you prefer a more Western breakfast, check out Joma Bakery Cafe or Le Café Ban Vat Sene and enjoy your coffee while watching the world pass by.
Laotian whiskey and Pak Ou Cave: 9am
Ban Xang Hai or Whiskey Village, 29 km north of Luang Prabang, is a common stop on the boat ride to Pak Ou Cave and is just 30 minutes away by car. Laotian whiskey, or Lao Lao as it's known locally, is traditionally used in important blessing ceremonies and to greet visitors, so don't be surprised to be offered a shot of Laotian whiskey (or a jar with drinking straws to share!) as a welcome drink. Whiskeys bottled with snakes or scorpions, believed to have some medicinal benefits, are not for the faint-hearted. Taking a boat from Ban Xang Hai to Pak Ou Cave, a spot also known as Tham Ting, is a great way of recovering from the Laotian whiskey tasting. Tham Ting is a pair of centuries-old caves that are home to hundreds of small wooden Buddha images brought there by the boatmen for good luck.
Strolling or cycling, your choice: 1pm
With all the charm of a European town infused with the spirit of Asia, Luang Prabang is best discovered with a walk about town. A bicycle ride will speed up the travel time, giving more chances to visit attractions but less opportunity to enjoy the slow pace of the town.
> Places not to be missed are Wat Xiang Thong, Wat Wisunalat and the Royal Palace Museum.
Founded in 1560 by King Settathilat, Wat Xiang Thong, which sits alongside the river, is the finest example of Lao monastic architecture. The highlight is the Sim - the congregation hall - with its low, sweeping, three-tiered roof.
The original wood structure of Wat Wisunalat, alternatively known as Wat Visoun, was destroyed by the Black Flag invaders, but the That Makmo - the "watermelon stupa" - was rebuilt in the late 1920s.
The Royal Palace Museum or Golden Hall was built in 1904, when the French ran the country. A blend of European and Lao designs, the museum was the home of Sisavangvong, the last king of Laos, until his death in 1959. Haw Pha Bang or Royal Palace Chapel, located at the northeast corner of the Royal Palace Museum, houses Prabang, a golden Buddhist statue after which the town is named.
Sunset at Phu Si: 5am
Wat Phu Si or Pra That Phu Si is opposite the Royal Palace Museum, on the hill in the heart of Luang Prabang. The walk up, 328 steps, isn't easy, but is supposed to signify a test of faith. The summit offers some wonderful city views.
SUNDAY
Morning market: 6am
Don't miss the morning market in a web of alleys off Sisavangvong Road. You will find fresh vegetables, fruits, river weeds, buffalo skin, huge river fish, live and dead chickens (still with their feathers), beehives and honey bees, barbecued paddy mouse, snakes, bats and other, not always recognisable, produce spread out on bamboo mats on the sidewalk for good prices.
Ock Pop Tok: 10AM
Choose your favourite silk or learn how to weave your own fabric at Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, a place where weavers, spinners and batik makers produce top-quality fabrics. A tour of the centre gives a superb insight into silk production and dye making. Lunch at the centre's river-view cafe or try a cup of the pleasant silk-worm droppings tea.
IF YOU GO
ThaiAirAsia operates a daily flight between Bangkok's Don Mueang and Luang Prabang.
~News courtesy of The Nation~
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